Taal Food Experience

Taal Food Experience – Jan 25, 2013 

Seventeen of us in 6 cars left the Makati Garden Club at 8:00 AM for a day of culture, history, and gastronomic delights at the Taal Heritage Town.

Taal is a small UNESCO heritage listed town in Batangas with historical sights and architecture of the early Spanish colonial days. It was the old capital of Batangas and is known for its beautiful hand embroidery and the” balisongs”( local knives and machetes).

Passing thru the Taal town arch, you can see the wonderful old ancestral homes of the town and the breathtaking fascade of the Basilica of San Martin de Tours looms to your right. We entered the church yard where one of the oldest  and largest bells from the bell tower was displayed. Then into the fabulous basilica itself. The Taal Basilica was first built in 1575 by the Spanish friars. Because of the volcanic erruptions of the Taal Volcano, the basilica was abandoned in 1754 and rebuilt in 1755. The original painted dome over the altar inspired the priests to decorate the interiors of the basilica in like style, making it one of it’s kind in the Far East – the biggest basilica in  the Far East. We were awed by the lavish chandeliers, the wide narra floorboards in the priests quarters and the old well.

Then it was on to the home of Marcella Agoncillo, the maker of the first Philippine flag, which was first unfurled by Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo upon declaration of the first Philippine Republic in 1898. Her family was very prominent in the events leading up to the Philippine Revolution against the Spaniards.

We proceeded to La Casita, an old ancestral Taaleno home ( 1700s) where Chef Sau del Rosario gave a demo of local smoked fish mousse, served with his refreshing buco/ lychee drink.  

After refreshments, we all proceeded next door to Villa Tortuga, where everyone had a great time choosing their period costumes and had a photo shoot all dressed up in colonial attire. Photos were done in sepia, to preserve the old world flavour.

The lunch in the beautiful dining room of the Villa was awesome!. Chef Sau prepared an inspired 6 course Taaleno meal. From aperitif to dessert, it was truly a gastronomic delight! He had stuffed pumpkin florets, clear bone marrow soup “ alla Sau”, a wonderful prawn salad and flavorsome local chicken inasal with mountain red rice, perfectly complimented by the rose and white wines served .  Dessert was caramelized spring roll flan with locally made pandan ice cream. A refreshing tarragon tea was a welcome end to a truly sumptuous meal!

Some of the group had to head back home due to prior commitments but most of us proceeded to visit the shrine of the miraculous Virgin of Caysasay, a tiny statue of the Virgin Mary, which was found thrown in a river. The Virgin and the waters from the well have been known to have miraculous healing powers.

After a short visit to the bazaar where the Taal embroiderers were working on their craft and  shopping for the linens and local savories, we all headed back to Manila.  Some guests from England headed up to the Tagaytay Ridge for a view of the Volcano and an overnight stay. They were treated to a visit to Sonia’s Garden and another incredible lunch at ANTONIO’S. 

Altogether, a really fun day out – culture  and  unsurpassed local cuisine with a great group of people ! 

Food Safaris

Manila Bulletin – Sat, Jul 28, 2012

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Explore the Philippines' natural, cultural, and gustatory treasures with Tour Flair's series of Food Safaris while feasting on delectable dishes personally prepared by Sau del Rosario, Tour Flair's signature chef.

"From Manila, we travel out of town to experience the beautiful cultural sites of the region and savor the delicious local dishes - specially demonstrated and presented by Chef Sau, who travels with the group," says Teresa "Dinty" Barredo-Keating, Tour Flair's co-managing director.

"Our exotic Food Safaris feature scrumptious local regional cuisine. Guests are treated to a fabulous six- course lunch of inspirational, traditional Filipino fare by Chef Sau with each dish plated individually and beautifully presented-truly top-of-the-line, world-class cuisine."

Culinary capital

The Pampanga Food Safari will be held on Aug. 15 and Sept. 19. Located north of Manila, Pampanga is considered as the culinary capital of the Philippines.

The day tour covers a visit to the 19th century-styled kitchen of Lilian Borromeo, a renowned cook in Pampanga who will demonstrate how traditional tsokolate and San Nicolas cookies were prepared in the olden days. Guests will also witness the making of local Pampango kakanin (sweets).

"We will visit the beautifully frescoed St. James the Apostle Church in Betis and the sunken San Guillermo Church in Bacolor. Lunch will be served at Bale Betis (Betis House), the charming Filipino-inspired house of Myrna Bituin, after which a tour of the Betis Crafts factory can be arranged. The skilled craftsmen of Betis Crafts produce beautifully designed pieces for the home that showcase Filipino talent."

While actual items in the menu usually change depending on the freshest ingredients available on the day of the tour, samples of what guests can partake of include burong isda (fish marinated in vinegar and deep fried to perfection), bulanglang (guava stew with pork ribs), morcon (beef roll), and rellenong bangus (milkfish with special stuffing).

Of course, no Filipino meal is complete without desserts. Some featured treats include tibok-tibok (Pampango-style maja blanca or coconut pudding), jalea de ube (purple yam with carabao milk), and native flan (carabao milk custard). There is also the famous Pampango halo-halo (sweet beans and fruits topped with crushed ice, milk and custard).

Homegrown

Born in Angeles City, Pampanga, Del Rosario trained at Culinary Institute of America and worked in France with Michelin star Chef Christian Plumai (L'Univers restaurant, Nice), and three-Michelin star Chef Jacques Le Divelec (Le Divelec restaurant, Paris).

He then ran the Mediterranean themed restaurant Luna in Shanghai; Equinox, Jaan, and New Asia Bar and Grill-three Swisshotel restaurants; as well as the Stamford, Raffles, and The Plaza, in Singapore.

He returned to Manila and opened several restaurants, including Museum Café and Chelsea Market and Café. He has worked with some of Manila's leading hotels, including Sofitel Philippine Plaza), Shangri-la Edsa, New World Hotel, and Peninsula Manila.

Northern exposure

On Oct. 20-22, Tour Flair will have a Vigan /Ilocos Norte Food Safari where guests will explore this region in northern Luzon by flying to Laoag and staying at the restored 19th-century Filipino-Spanish village of Sitio Remedios by the South China Sea in Currimao.

Guests will get to see sites such as the famous Paoay Church and Bell Tower and Batac. A tour of the heritage city of Vigan will include lunch at an ancestral home and a superb colonial dinner.

"Chef Sau will be with us and will prepare his version of Ilocano cuisine with local chefs for a fabulous dinner at Sitio Remedios, she says.

Future Food Safari tours are being planned for Tagaytay, Bulacan, and the Bicol Region. Tour Flair has tours to Baguio and Banaue Rice Terraces; Amanpulo; Batanes; El Nido, Palawan; Boracay; and Bataan. Tour Flair is managed by sisters Teresa "Dinty" Barredo-Keating and Mindy Barredo Perez-Rubio with Lory Vi Valdes.

Tour Flair's Pampanga Food Safari is on Aug. 15 and Sept. 19; its Vigan Food Safari will be on Oct. 20-22. Contact +632-736-3883 or +63917-530-6090 (Philippines), +1-650-366-4869(USA) and +1-300-104-174 (Australia) or email tourflair@gmail.com or visit tourflair.com.

PAMPANGA FEAST

MAGICAL!

You couldn't have asked for a more perfect day.  Although the weather report predicted rain and thunderstorms, the day dawned a sunny, cloudless blue.  A group of 13 met at the Makati Garden Club bright and early and by 8:30 we were on our way to Pampanga.  We exited San Fernando and took the road to Mexico, the town right next to bustling San Fernando.  We stopped at the home of Lillian Borromeo, famed Pampanga cook, noted for her authentic turn-of-the-century kitchen.  She had a mid-morning snack laid out for the guests, including different types of native bibingka, her famous San Nicolas cookies, and many other delicacies.  Guests enjoyed the "almusal", washed down with her refreshing concoction of pandan juice.  Lillian then gave a demonstration on how to make San Nicolas cookies, and tibok-tibok, which is a Pampangueño coconut milk pudding.  She showed guests how women in the19th century used utensils and ovens for cooking and baking. Visitors then heaped themselves with purchased boxes of cookies before proceeding to the churches.

       Guest, Jill Sparks, shows off how to make San Nicolas cookies, as Lillian Borromeo looks on

We visited San Guillermo Church, better known as Bacolor Church, in Bacolor, Pampanga, one of the oldest towns in the Philippines.  This beautiful church was completely buried by volcanic ash and lahar during the 1991 Mount Pinatubo eruption.  The townsfolk rallied behind the parish and dug up the altar.  They set it beneath the high dome as it was the only way it could fit, since the church was under ash and sand.  Today, with the main door completely buried, entry into the church is through what was once the second floor choir balcony.  We then visited Betis Church, in Guagua, the town next-door, but it being 1PM, the building was closed for lunch.  We decided to head on to the home of Myrna Bituin, the owner of Betis Crafts, whose daughter, Leslie joined us as hostess.   She owns a 3 hectare property along the highway, and has beautiful houses built behind her furniture factory, where our gourmet lunch was prepared.

The sunken San Guillermo Church in Bacolor

                     Chef Sau del Rosario chats with Leslie Bituin of Betis Crafts, at whose home we had lunch in.

Chef Sau del Rosario was a-waiting. There was a lady making home-made barquillos, that were absolutely delicious!  Many of us tried our hand at making these rolled wafers.

                                      Tour director, Lory-vi Valdes tries her hand at making barquillos

Guests sipped on a cool lychee drink as they watched Chef Sau give a demo on a mince meat roll wrapped in lettuce.  Fabulous!  Everyone soon sat at a long wood table creatively decorated for lunch.

  First dish was a very light morcon, a meat roll garnished with flower petals (edible, of course!) followed by tangy bulanglang, which is a sinigang of guava, but with lamb versus pork.  A crisp paco (fern) and watermelon salad followed.  Then a hearty crab and corn soup, finished off with his piece de resistance -- rellenong bangus, stuffed milkfish.  Dessert was sans rival na langka, with jalea de ube, garnished with a barquillo.  Although it was a six-course meal, guests did not walk away full.  Chef Sau has perfected the art of creating a menu that segues one into the other with precision, timing and quantity.  It was getting quite warm, and just then, gusts of wind blew and clouds came and poured rain.  We cooled off instantly!  As lunch concluded, so did the rains.  Everyone went for a stroll in the gardens, others visited the furniture and craft showroom.

                                                                         Morcon garnished with flower petals

                                                                                 Paco Salad with Watermelon

                                                                                           Rellenong Bangus

                                                                          Bulanglang

                                                                             Sans Rival na Langka and Jalea de Ube

Then it was off again to Betis Church, a few minutes away, to visit the stunningly frescoed church, known as the Sistine Chapel of the Philippines.  This baroque-inspired church was built in the mid-17th century, and is filled with statues, frescoes and beautifully carved doors and altars.  Breathtaking.  We headed on back to Manila at 4PM.  Traffic along EDSA was pretty bad, but despite that, everyone reached their destination by 6PM, quite satisfied with all the good food, good wine, pastries, demos and photographs that we took, with a touch of history to boot!

Betis Church 

                                                   Some guests pose in front of Bacolor Church

FIRST FOOD SAFARI - September 24/25, 2011

The evening of Sept 24, 2011 was the launching of Tour Flair’s First Food Safari at Restaurant 101 in Enderun Colleges, at McKinley Hill in Bonfacio. Nicolas Cantrel - Enderun’snewly arrived French chef form Alain Ducasse in Paris, was to prepare a French/ Filipino fusion gourmet dinner – a first in Filipino cuisine. Chef Cantrel was winner of the acclaimed Iron Chef earlier this year, and was Master Chef to many of Ducasse’s Michelinstarred restaurants in France and New York.

All the guests proceeded to Enderun’s demo kitchen on the second floor where Chef Cantrel wowed everyone with his demonstration of the local banana – “saging saba” – baked to perfection with ham and gruyere cheese. Mouthwatering! This was followed by his Frenchified version of the traditional local favourite, Karé Karé de Pata ( stewed pig's knuckles in peanut sauce) with Ravioli. We all had a small tantalising taste of this special dish as it was to be served as the main course at the dinner.

Cantrel Demonstration Kare-kare Ravioli

We then all proceeded to the foyer where an aperitif and hors d’oeurves were served at the bar. The gruyere lumpia (spring rolls) served piping hot and the “escargots” with coconut on a pastry shell were to die for. Enderun’s signature cocktail really put everyone in the right mood and we still had a 4 course dinner - with wine pairings - to look forward to.

At dinner we were served an entré of Stuffed Crab with citrus (crabes farcis aux agrumes) washed down with a fabulous Pinot Grigio followed by Chef Cantrel’s special sorbet to cleanse the pallet before the long awaited Kare Kare Ravioli (ravioli de beufs aux aubergine). This dish was certainly something out of this world – like something no one ever tried before and it was absolutely divine! The fusion of the French/ Filipino cuisine really brought out to perfection the texture and flavour of the dish. Even the die-hard Filipino food enthusiasts and famed local Chef Sau del Rosario were totally impressed. One of the foreign guests commented that it was one of the best dishes she had tasted in a long time. Congratulations to Chef Extraordinaire Nicolas Cantrel! And to top it all off, he served us the most exquisite “mille fleur de noix de cajou” – his version of Sans Rival.

All 35 guests were overly satisfied -- certainly a fitting start to TOUR FLAIR’S FOOD SAFARI

The next day, a group of 30 met at Enderun for a full day Food Safari in Pampanga – just an hour north of Manila. Our first stop was the turn-of –the –century kitchen of Lilian Borromeo, one of the pioneers of traditional Pampango cuisine. We saw how hot chocolate was prepared in those times – from the grounding of the cocoa beans and peanuts in an antique stone grinder to the final delicious Pampango hot chocolate drink. She demonstrated her famous local deserts and San Nicolas cookies using the old traditional utensils, pots and pans.Her stories behind the origins of the dishes were truly interesting. Everyone had their fill of hot chocolate, cookies, tomato jellies, and “tibuk-tibuk” – and of course, we had to buy, to take home these incredible freshly prepared goodies.

Lillian Borromeo giving food demo Grinding the "tsokolate"

Then it was off to Angeles – where we were greeted with a refreshing fruit drink by renowned Filipino Chef Sau del Rosario at the ancestral home of the Henson family. Chef Sau was trained in all the top Manila hotels, then furthered his training in France in several Michelin Star restaurants. He managed restaurants in Shanghai and Singapore before returning to Manila to open his own, among them the popular Museum Café. The Henson home was builtusing wood and stone in 1824 by Angel Pantaleon de Miranda who founded the city of Angeles. This beautiful Spanish/Filipino home, with it’s wood beams, antique wooden flooring and furnishing and kitchen was a fitting venue for the traditional Pampango cuisine prepared by Chef Sau. Chef Sau’s demo of Pampanga tamales – local style – was followed by a 6-course sit-down lunch. Each dish was exquisitely plated, one tasting better than the next, and as they were served to the guests, Chef Sau explained the history and background of the different dishes. He outdid himself with his special “Guava Soup” and traditional “morcon". This was followed by tasty “kakanins” (local desserts).

Menu: Paco Salad with Prawns; Burong Mangga with Fried Catfish; Bulanglang – Guava Sinigang Stew; Rellenong Bangus – Stuffed Milkfish; Morcon – Meatroll; Tibok-tibok, Jalea de Ube, Flan

Chef Sau demonstrating tamale making Pampango style

After a sumptuous and filling lunch, all the ladies – in true form – went to the local shops to buy more sweets and goodies - specialties of the region.

Chef Sau serving guests Paco Salad with Prawns

And still we were not satisfied. We hopped on the coaster, and crossed all the way to Arayat, in the foothills of the famed Pampanga mountain, to converge on a small, quaint “halo halo” shop (this is a local dessert with a mix of corn, beans, pastillas de leche, and carabao milk with crushed ice). A really fabulously delicious end to the FOOD SAFARI!

This is just the first of a series of Filipino Food Safaris that TOUR FLAIR will be promoting around the Philippines. A Food Safari to Vigan - a heritage listed Spanish town up north, and to Ilocos Norte, as well as the historical town of Pila, Laguna south of Manila, are being planned. Chef Sau del Rosario will be the host chef.

Villa Escudero

One fine Sunday in November, we took off for a family day trip to Villa Escudero, an enchanting resort in Quezon province, just 2 hours from Manila. The Robinson family - Liza, Paul and their 2 beautiful daughters – Ines and Francesca, the Infantes – Javy and kids (Gabi and Alfonso), and Josphine del Gallego Knox were the guests of TOUR FLAIR, with Dinty Keating. Villa Escudero was originally a coconut plantation and was the ancestral home of the very wealthy and influential Escudero family. The family had lived there for generations, but in the 1960s they decided to share the beauty and charm of the place with the people and opened it up to the public.

Upon arrival at the Villa, you are driven through a forest of coconut trees – once part of the original plantation. Carabao (water buffalo) carts are waiting to take you inside the Villa grounds. Our carabao was called MAGANDA – which means “beautiful” in Filipino. The slow and leisurely ride around the grounds was totally enjoyable – with a guitarist and singer crooning old traditional Filipino songs. The kids were absolutely thrilled and excited!

Our first stop was the restaurant, as everyone was hungry and thirsty and wanted a snack and some breakfast. The restaurant overlooks the picturesque and serene lake, where the cottages are located. Across the lake is Mt. Banahaw, a mystical mountain - according to folklore – and a forest where thousands of native birds abound. Birdwatching and mountain climbing are some of the very popular activities in the Villa.

Paul and Liza Robinson were brave enough to take the bamboo raft down the lake. The kids did a bit of fishing and we had to restrain them from jumping into the pool and water slides. They were that excited.

We all climbed back into our carabao cart and were whisked off to the museum.

This was the old ancestral home of the Escuderos which had been rebuilt to replicate the 16^th century church in the barrio (town). The old man Escudero was an avid collector and the museum showcases his varied and very interesting collection of artifacts and treasures that he had accumulated in all his travels. The first floor houses the religious items and “carruajes” or carriages with statues of Jesus Christ, Mary, and the saints in their elaborately designed robes.These carriages are still used in the parades during the feast days of the town. The chandeliers from the 17^th and 18^th centuries adorn the rafters of the church. Upstairs you can see everything from excavated chinese jars and vases to old armor and uniforms from the 2 world wars, diving gear from the 19^th century and even a shrunken head from the Amazons! Original correspondence from General MacArthur and Jose Rizal were also displayed. Parts of the original house depicted the lifestyle of the gentry in the 19^th century. Truly amazing and worth seeing.

Then it was off to lunch. This was truly the highlight of the day. As we approached the lunch area, we could hear the roar of the waterfalls splashing down the river. The long bamboo tables and chairs were set in the water beneath the waterfalls and a fabulous buffet was spread out on tables. The kids were beside themselves in excitement! They were going to have lunch with their feet in the water. What a treat! They splashed and jumped in the water and we were hard put to have them eat at all. Gabi was so awed that she said she wanted her house to be the same way. They all got happily soaked when Paul took them under the falls. None of them wanted to leave.

To cap the wonderful events of the day, we were treated to a Filipino native dance show, which depicted all the regions of the Philippines – from the mountains in the far north to the muslim regions down south.

Everyone was now truly tired – but happy. So, it was back on our carabao cart and off to the cars for the drive back to Manila. A truly wonderful experience – Filipino style!

On to Baguio and up North

Tour Flair went on an exploratory road trip up north to visit the sites and savor the culinary delights of the region.

Leaving Manila in the earlymorning, we took the North Expressway which was a breeze – no traffic and great highways – and reached Luisita, Tarlac, in an hour and a half. The home town of the late president Corazon Cojuangco Aquino, the family has a beautiful ancestral home and “hacienda”, part of which was converted into a high-end subdivision – Las Haciendas de Luisita – which boasts of tree-lined avenues and an exclusive golf club. We opted to have a pancake breakfast in the “Village Square” and we were delighted to see a little colorful goat cart taking children for a ride. So unique!

UNIQUE GOAT CART

Then it was off to Baguio – a 3 hour stretch of leisurely driving through the countryside towns and rice fields and up the mountains. The zig zag roads and the breathtaking views are really a site to behold. Baguio was so much a part of my childhood. Dubbed the summer capital of the Philippines because of it’s beautifully cool mountain weather and pine forests, it was the most popular vacation destination for the Manila folk in the 1950s up to the early 1990s. Many Manilans, to escape the summer heat, would take the children and family up as soon as school was out to spend the rest of the summer in the cool weather. Most families had summer residences in the city and frequented the exclusive “members only” Baguio Country Club.

FAMOUS BAGUIO COUNTRY CLUB VERANDAH

The children would go horseback riding, roller skating, boating and mini cardriving (at Burnham Park), while the men played golf at the Club, and the women did their shopping at the market for silver,antiques and fresh vegetables. Camp John Hay was as American recreational facility and had a magnificent golf course and typical American restaurants and commissary. Now in the 21st century, Baguio City, being the capital of the Mountain Province, is a very busy and crowded metropolis. The Country Club and John Hay (now privately owned) are still great destinations for golf and family vacations and the silver and craft markets are a draw card – if one can brave the traffic.

WITH CARLO & JO LOPEZ

We stayed overnight at the Country Club and were joined by a young couple who had just come in from the United States and were vacationing in Baguio – Carlo and Jo Lopez. They had a lot of fun golfing, drinking and dining out at the many diverse night spots in the city. One of the highlights of their tour was the Bencab museum. Ben Cabrera, a national artist from the province – whose museum is a wonderful collection of artwork from various well-known artists, artifacts and antiques of the indigenous mountain tribes, and a beautiful garden with old ancestral Igorot huts and rice terraces, is a popular visitors sight. His quaint restaurant serves authentic local delicacies. We had a fabulous gourmet dinner at Le Chef at The Manor – a 5-star hotel in John Hay - with master chef Billy King. It was a superb dining experience with the awesome view of the gardens in the open air dining room.

KAHUNA BEACH RESORT IN LA UNION

The next day we were on the road again - this time up north to the Ilocos Region. We left Baguio and headed down the mountains to the beach area of La Union and stopped by a great resort – Kahuna Beach. The cottages and cabanas were really top class and was a nice relaxing stop-over before heading out on the long drive to Vigan. Even the dark sand beach and the surf had a special charm to it and it is a destination for surfers – with the Billabong group from Australia working in partnership with Kahuna.

CALESA IN HISTORIC VIGAN

In another couple of hours we were in Vigan – the heritage listed historical village, which is the oldest and the only surviving Spanish/Filipino city in the Far East. It boasts of the Cathedral, the Archbishops Palace and the various homes dating back 400 years. The horsedrawn carriages – calesas – wend their way thru the cobble stone streets with the old houses selling artifacts and various local gifts and wares. The Syquia Mansion gives us a glimpse of the lifestyle of the era.

CANDLELIGHT DINNER AT SITIO REMEDIOS

After quite a tiring day, we headed off to Sitio Remedios in Currimao, Ilocos Norte, for 2 nights. The Sitio is so perfect – with Filipino Spanish inspired cottages and beautiful gardens by the South China Sea. The service, hospitality and warmth of the staff were everything one could ask for and the food was delicious. The place is so peaceful – especially in the early morning – that you feel entirely relaxed and worry-free. It was quite hard wresting yourself away from that tranquility to go on with the tour. But on we went to visit the other amazing sites of Ilocos Norte.

Surely the highlight of the region is the 16^th century church and bell tower in Paoay – San Agustin Cathedral – the oldest and most beautiful church in the country. The bell tower is truly amazing with the original huge bronze bells – 4 of them – brought in by the Agustinian friars, and the stone walls made of sea coral taken from the China Sea 5 kilometers away. Malacanan of the North – where the Marcoses have their residence is not to be missed. We went on to Batac to visit the Marcos Museum and ancestral home and checked out the pottery making that is famous in the region. On the way up to Laoag, we saw the 16^th century lighthouse built by the Spaniards – a beacon for their navy – which is still used by the Coast Guard. - and the Museum of Ilocos Norte which depicts the lifestyle and produce of the region. We drove further up north to visit the beaches of Pagudpud and then it was back to Sitio Remedios for a much needed rest and another fabulous dinner – served by candlelight.

HISTORIC BELL TOWER

The next day we left for the long 10 hour drive to Manila – tiring but worth it. It was a memorable experience and one that allowed us to experience and appreciate what the North of the Philippines has to offer.

PAGUDPUD BEACH