How fortunate to visit Ilocos having a well-connected friend from Vigan show you around. We flew into Laoag and proceeded by car to Vigan, stopping by Paoay, to see St. Agustin, the oldest church in the region, and a World Heritage Site. The impressive exterior boasts centuries-old, massive adobe blocks built in a baroque style. The equally impressive Bell Tower beside the church was once used as a look-out point for both Katipuneros (late 19th century Filipino revolutionaries against Spain) and guerillas during WWII. We lunched at a simple Spanish/Filipino restaurant at the edge of the church's lawn, Cafe Herencia, where I savored the best pinakbet (an Ilocano dish with bitter lemon) ever! The drive down to Vigan was quick and scenic. Belen King, the "queen" of Vigan, was waiting for us in her historic home. That evening we dined at the Syquia Mansion (now a museum), hosted by Ed Quirino, grandson of late President Elpidio Quirino. We literally stepped back in time as we sat at the grand old dining room to eat the most exotic Ilocano dishes -- dinengdeng (a soup stew with malunggay leaves), puki-puki (almost like a tortang talong), and pukpuklo, a seaweed dish. Everyday was a gustatory delight with dishes like bagnet (pork fried in a special manner to mouth-watering crispiness), pakbet (or pinakbet), longanisa (Ilocano style sausages), adobong pusit, all accompanied by the native sweet vinegar and fish bagoong. YUM!
Bagnet, Pinakbet & Pukpuklo
Because we were with Belen, we were treated royally and invited to dine at the Governor's palace, as well as the Archbishop's home. Belen's neice, Dita Sandico Ong (noted Philippine designer) blew into town with her bevy of models for a fashion show hosted by the governor to commemorate the town's anniversary. The Town Plaza was bustling with activity. Craftsmen and merchants from neighboring towns and provinces set up stalls to sell their wares. We were struck by the variety of beautiful hand-made items and we bought just about everything -- exotic woven handbags, pillow cases, blankets, placemats and napkins, leather wallets, wood carvings; of course we couldn't resist snacking on famous Vigan empanadas (filled with grated papaya and longanisa).
Vigan street scene & Syquia Mansion
We strolled along the old cobbled stone streets flanked by ancient Spanish residences, we went to the beach, we browsed through a plant nursery, we bought lovely earthenware jars, we walked into countless old charming Spanish houses and churches, we visited museums, and we lunched at Sitio Remedios, an enchanting beach resort where genuine old Ilocos homes were transported and rebuilt. We left for Manila heavily laden with fabulous goodies and with the thought that there is no better way to visit a town than to have a good friend show you around. No way indeed!
this is really good!!! congrates
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